Types of Ikat Sarees in India: Pochampally, Sambalpuri, Patola, Bomkai and More

India has many Ikat traditions, and no two are quite the same. A Pochampally saree from Telangana looks very different from a Sambalpuri saree from Odisha. A Patola from Gujarat follows its own rules too. All of them use the same basic idea: the pattern is tie-dyed into the yarn before it reaches the loom. The motifs, colours and weaving methods are what make each region different.

At Kaushah, we often hear the question: “Which Ikat saree should I choose?” To answer it, this guide covers the main types of Ikat sarees in India, where each one comes from, and how to recognise it.

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A Quick Recap: What Makes a Saree “Ikat”?

Before we look at the different types, here’s a quick reminder of what Ikat means. In an Ikat saree, sections of yarn are tightly tied and then dyed. The tied parts resist the colour. After several rounds of tying and dyeing, the threads are lined up on a handloom, and the design appears as the fabric is woven.

There are three main forms:

• Single Ikat (warp): only the lengthwise threads are tie-dyed.
• Single Ikat (weft): only the crosswise threads are tie-dyed.
• Double Ikat: both sets of threads are tie-dyed and must line up exactly.

New to Ikat? Read our full guide: What Is an Ikkat Saree? History, Origin and the Weaving Process Explained.

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1. Pochampally Ikat Saree (Telangana)

Where it’s from: Bhoodan Pochampally and nearby villages in the Nalgonda and Yadadri Bhuvanagiri districts of Telangana.

What makes it special: Pochampally Ikat is known for bold geometric patterns, especially diamonds, zig-zags, chevrons and sharp interlocking shapes. The colours are often bright and high-contrast, which gives these sarees a modern look while keeping them rooted in tradition.

Weavers here use single and double Ikat methods on both cotton and silk. Pochampally was among the first Indian handloom traditions to get a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. The village was also recognised by the UN World Tourism Organization as one of the best tourism villages in the world in 2021.

How to recognise it:

• Sharp geometric repeats across the body
• Strong colour combinations such as red-black, mustard-maroon and blue-white
• Soft, feathered edges on each motif

Best for: Office wear (cotton), festive occasions (silk), and anyone who likes a clean, graphic look.

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2. Sambalpuri Ikat Saree (Odisha)

Where it’s from: Western Odisha, especially the Sambalpur, Bargarh, Sonepur and Boudh regions.

What makes it special: In Odisha, Ikat is called Bandha, which means “tied.” Sambalpuri sarees are mostly weft Ikat. They’re known for detailed, curved motifs taken from nature and temple life. Common designs include the conch (shankha), wheel (chakra), flower (phula), fish, deer and rudraksha.

Sambalpuri weaving has several well-known styles:

• Pasapalli: a chessboard pattern inspired by the traditional game of pasa
• Bichitrapuri: detailed borders and layered motifs
• Sonepuri: fine work from the Sonepur weaving cluster

How to recognise it:

• Rounded, detailed motifs rather than sharp geometry
• Contrast borders and a richly patterned pallu
• Earthy tones as well as bright festival colours

Best for: Traditional events, pujas, and anyone who loves meaningful, nature-inspired designs.

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3. Patola Saree (Gujarat)

Where it’s from: Patan in North Gujarat.

What makes it special: The Patan Patola is one of the most respected textiles in India. It’s a double Ikat silk saree, so both the warp and weft are tie-dyed by hand and must line up perfectly on the loom. Because of this, the saree looks exactly the same on both sides.

The craft has long been tied to the Salvi weaving families of Patan, who have passed it down for generations. A single Patola can take months of work. Common motifs include elephants, parrots, dancing figures, flowers and the well-known nari kunj and chhabdi bhat patterns.

There’s also the Rajkot Patola, a single Ikat version from the Saurashtra region. It’s lighter and more affordable, but still beautiful.

How to recognise it:

• The same design on both sides of the fabric (Patan Patola)
• Precise, grid-based motifs
• Deep, rich colours on pure silk

Best for: Weddings, heirloom collections, and once-in-a-lifetime occasions.

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4. Bomkai Saree (Odisha)

Where it’s from: It started in Bomkai village in the Ganjam district of Odisha. Today it is mostly woven in the Sonepur (Subarnapur) region.

What makes it special: Bomkai sarees are known for their extra-weft motifs, where extra threads are woven in to create raised, embroidery-like patterns. These are usually found on the border and pallu. Strictly speaking, Bomkai is not an Ikat technique. However, many Bomkai sarees combine Ikat in the body with Bomkai work on the border, which is why the two names often go together.

Common motifs include fish (a symbol of good fortune), temple spires, lotus flowers and the rudraksha.

How to recognise it:

• Raised, thread-woven motifs on the border and pallu
• Often an Ikat body with contrast borders
• Temple and fish motifs

Best for: Festive wear and anyone who wants Ikat with richer, decorative borders.

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5. Telia Rumal (Telangana & Andhra Pradesh)

Where it’s from: Puttapaka in Telangana and Chirala in Andhra Pradesh.

What makes it special: Telia means “oily.” In this rare double Ikat craft, the yarn is treated with oil before dyeing. This gives the fabric a soft feel and a slightly earthy smell. Telia Rumals were originally square cloths worn by fishermen and later by royalty. Today the technique is also used for sarees.

The traditional palette is limited to red, black and white, with geometric grids, birds, flowers and sometimes clocks or aeroplanes, a nod to its colonial-era history.

How to recognise it:

• Red, black and white colour palette
• Fine geometric grids
• A soft, slightly oily texture

Best for: Collectors and lovers of rare, story-rich handlooms.

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6. Khandua Saree (Odisha)

Where it’s from: Nuapatna and Maniabandha in the Cuttack district of Odisha.

What makes it special: Khandua is a silk Ikat with a deep spiritual link to Lord Jagannath. Traditionally, Khandua fabric carrying verses from the Gita Govinda was offered to the deity in Puri. Khandua sarees often feature elephants, lions, temple motifs and flowers, usually in deep reds, oranges and yellows.

How to recognise it:

• Silk Ikat with bold temple and animal motifs
• Strong, rich traditional colours
• A slightly heavier, structured silk

Best for: Religious ceremonies, weddings and festive occasions.

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7. Andhra and Koyyalagudem Ikat

Where it’s from: Weaving villages across Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, including Koyyalagudem and Chirala.

What makes it special: These clusters mainly make cotton Ikat sarees with simpler geometric patterns. They’re lighter and more affordable, which makes them popular for everyday wear. They’re a great way to start an Ikat collection.

How to recognise it:

• Lightweight cotton
• Simple, repeating geometric patterns
• Easy-to-wear colours

Best for: Daily wear, office wear and hot weather.

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How to Choose the Right Ikat Saree for You

With so many types of Ikat sarees, choosing one can feel hard. Here’s a simple way to decide:

• For daily or office wear: Choose cotton Pochampally, Andhra or Koyyalagudem Ikat. They’re light, breathable and easy to care for.
• For festivals and pujas: Sambalpuri, Bomkai and Khandua sarees bring colour, tradition and meaning.
• For weddings and heirlooms: A Patan Patola or a silk Pochampally double Ikat is a piece to treasure for generations.
• For collectors: Telia Rumal and fine Pasapalli weaves are rare and full of history.
• For a modern look: Pochampally’s bold geometry pairs well with contemporary blouses and minimal jewellery.

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How to Spot a Genuine Handwoven Ikat Saree

Whatever type you choose, make sure it’s real handloom:

• Check the motif edges. Real Ikat has a soft, feathered blur. Prints have sharp lines.
• Turn it over. Handwoven Ikat shows the pattern on the back as well. Double Ikat looks almost the same on both sides.
• Look for small irregularities. They’re signs of handwork, not flaws.
• Ask for origin details. A trusted seller should be able to tell you the region, the technique and whether the saree carries a GI or Handloom Mark.

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Final Thoughts

The many types of Ikat sarees in India show how one technique has grown into very different regional styles. Pochampally offers clean geometry, Sambalpuri carries temple symbolism, Patola shows the precision of double Ikat, and Bomkai adds decorative borders. Each one reflects the skill, beliefs and history of the community that weaves it.

At Kaushah, we celebrate this variety and the weavers behind it. Whether you’re choosing your first cotton Ikat or adding a Patola to your collection, you’re helping keep a centuries-old craft alive.

Explore Kaushah’s Ikat saree collection and find the weave that suits you.

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Frequently Asked Questions

1. How many types of Ikat sarees are there in India?
The best-known types are Pochampally, Sambalpuri, Patola, Bomkai (often combined with Ikat), Telia Rumal, Khandua and Andhra cotton Ikat. Each region also has its own smaller sub-styles.

2. Which is the most expensive type of Ikat saree?
The Patan Patola is usually the most expensive, because it’s a double Ikat silk saree that can take months to weave by hand.

3. What is the difference between Pochampally and Sambalpuri Ikat?
Pochampally is known for sharp, bold geometric patterns. Sambalpuri features curved, detailed motifs inspired by nature and temple culture.

4. Is Bomkai an Ikat saree?
Not exactly. Bomkai is known for extra-weft motifs, but many Bomkai sarees combine an Ikat body with Bomkai borders.

5. Which Ikat saree is best for summer?
Cotton Ikat sarees from Pochampally, Andhra or Koyyalagudem are the best choice for summer, because they’re light and breathable.